Cerlist Engine Removal

A good deal of time was spent disconnecting all of the lines and wires running to or near the engine and removing the shift linkages and driveshafts, transfer case, transmission, crossmember, as well as the radiator and shroud. The shear size of the engine and small door openings require the engine to be dropped out from underneath the body, so I removed the front axle and right spring.  The spreader bar on the engine hoist doesn't have suitable attachments for the massive 5/8 diameter studs on the heads, and there are not enough threaded holes on the block to attach to even if the spreader chains were long enough to reach them.  Two pieces of 3/16 inch angle iron serve as an adapter simply by drilling four holes in each piece. Two 5/8" holes for the studs on the head, and two 1/2" holes to bolt to the engine load leveler.
The hoist just barely fits in the front door without removing it from its hinges.  The Weight of the engine now supported by the crane; the engine mounts can be removed.  The engine mounts to an angled bracket on the frame via a pair of  2.5" x 2.5" x 1" rubber engine mounts with two bolts.  These bolts are particularly hard to get at and efficient removal requires two men and a variety of box and open end wrenches.  A picture of the spreader attached to the engine can be found here.
Once the engine mounts are removed, the engine can be lowered.  The tight clearance requires that the crane be moved back a bit every time the engine is lowered a few inches.  The hoist is moved to the eyelet on the front bumper and the Cerlist can easily be slid out sideways by one hand when it rests on a scrap of plywood placed on about six one inch steel pipes.
The top of the van is about three or four inches from the ceiling and the engine clears the frame by a single inch. All in all removing an engine from a forward control is fairly easy.
The 170ci 3 cyl Cerlist next to the 350ci Chevrolet V-8 that will replace it.

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